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Tango clásico in Buenos Aires: the story

Brief answer

The story of tango in Buenos Aires begins in the River Plate's port districts, with African, criollo and European immigrant roots; it peaked with the big orchestras and is now UNESCO intangible heritage.

Key dates

  • African roots: candombe12
  • Gardel died in 19353
  • UNESCO heritage since 20094

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Tango in Buenos Aires, pin by pin

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Map of Buenos Aires with places in the story of tango, from Caminito in La Boca to Gardel's house in the Abasto, Chacarita Cemetery and the Palermo racecourse
  1. La Boca's street museum of painted conventillos, the shared homes of Genoese immigrants; nearby restaurants stage tango shows.

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  2. The singer Edmundo Rivero bought this old San Telmo corner in 1969 and made it a tango house.

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  3. The oldest café in the city, open since 1858; jazz and tango play in its basement.

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  4. Founded in 1990 on Avenida de Mayo: the World Tango Museum, dance rooms and a 3-year course.

    Google Maps
  5. Gardel and Razzano signed their first record deal here in 1917; the café reopened in 2007.

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  6. The café at San Juan and Boedo where Homero Manzi wrote Sur, in 1948.

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  7. Gardel bought this house in 1927 for his mother; the museum closes on Tuesdays.

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  8. A short street with 6 portraits of Gardel painted on shop shutters.

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  9. A statue of the Zorzal Criollo beside the Abasto, unveiled in 2000.

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  10. Gardel's tomb, where visitors leave lit cigarettes in the statue's hand, and Aníbal Troilo's.

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  11. The arena where the city mourned Gardel when his remains came home in 1936.

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  12. A bellows-shaped sculpture 3.5 metres high in Puerto Madero, unveiled in 2007.

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  13. Gardel was a regular at these races and owned a horse, Lunático.

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  14. Founded in 1912; its first floor became a milonga hall in the 1970s.

    Google Maps

Map data by © OpenStreetMap contributors

Tango was born among sailors' taverns, crowded tenements and African drums, and grew into the sound of a city. Follow its story from the port to the concert hall, and find the places where it happened.

Editorial team, tangolessonbuenosaires.click · Updated November 12, 2026 · Reading: 8 min

In brief

  • BornIn the 19th century, by the River Plate.1
  • RootsAfrican, criollo and European immigrant.1
  • Golden ageThe 1920s to the 1950s, with big orchestras.2
  • Its voiceCarlos Gardel, who died in 1935.3
  • World heritageUNESCO listed tango as world heritage in 2009.4

Where tango began: the port and the patios

Tango clásico in Buenos Aires grew from the bottom of society up. UNESCO credits the urban lower classes of Buenos Aires and Montevideo, on the shores of the River Plate, with developing it.5 The city tourism board says the dance took shape in the working-class immigrant districts in the mid-19th century, while Argentina's national culture authority places its emergence in the port areas towards the end of that century.6,7

Both accounts point to the same world: the waterfront, the taverns and the shared courtyards of San Telmo and La Boca, which the tourism board names as the first home of the music and the dance, long before it reached the ballrooms and the stages.8 In La Boca, the wood and sheet-metal houses of Caminito still show what a conventillo looked like, the communal homes that Genoese immigrants built from the late 19th century.9

Those houses were crowded, noisy and full of music from many countries, Italian songs next to Spanish guitars and African drums. Neighbours shared kitchens, washing lines and patios, and every patio could become a dance floor. Caminito itself was rescued in the 1950s, when neighbours and the painter Benito Quinquela Martín turned the tenements into a street museum.10 Walk it by day to picture the world tango came from, and look up at the balconies and the bright patched walls.

Places in the story

Tango landmarks and their dates

PlaceYearWhat happened
Café Tortoni1858Founded; now the oldest café
Café de los Angelitos1917Gardel and Razzano signed
Gardel's house, Abasto1927Bought for his mother
Luna Park1936Memorial for Gardel
Esquina Homero Manzi1948Sur written at a table
Bar Sur1967Opens in San Telmo
El Viejo Almacén1969Becomes a tango house
National Tango Academy1990Created on Avenida de Mayo
Tango Monument2007Unveiled in Puerto Madero

Dates from the city's tourism pages and city government sources.22,13,23,24,14,25,26,27,28

The African roots that were written out

Before tango there was candombe, a rhythm born in Africa that made its home in the streets of Buenos Aires.15 The word was first written down in the 18th century, for the music, dance and Bantu-Catholic religion of enslaved Angolan and Congolese people in the River Plate.11 After Argentina abolished slavery in 1853, African communities gathered in Monserrat and San Telmo, keeping a tradition the tourism board calls a pivotal influence on tango.12

Argentina's culture authority goes further: it names the milonga, candombe and other genres of African descent as a significant part of tango's birth.7 It also admits that as the dance became fashionable with the upper classes and abroad, that African influence was minimised and often left out altogether.16 The City of Buenos Aires now describes tango as the fusion of Afro-American, criollo and European immigrant contributions.1

You can still hear the drums. Candombe groups practise in San Telmo's streets on Saturday and Sunday afternoons.17 The larger llamadas, parades of drum troupes, take place at the start of spring in La Boca, on the first weekend of November in Monserrat and on the first weekend of December in San Telmo.18 Standing in the crowd as the troupes pass is the most vivid history lesson the city offers, and it costs nothing.

Tango today

The living heritage in numbers

  • Festival venues50
  • Neighbourhoods34
  • Mundial countries45
  • Semana milongas59
  • Register milongas82

More than 50 festival venues in 34 neighbourhoods and couples from more than 45 countries; 59 milongas in the Semana de las Milongas; 82 in the city register on our count of 11 November 2026.19,20,21

Immigrants, cafés and a mixed identity

The other half of the story arrived by ship. The city's own tango page describes a fusion of African culture with gaucho and native traditions, enriched by European immigrants, mainly Spanish and Italian, and by settlers from the Middle East.31 UNESCO sums up that blend as a single identity formed from European newcomers, the descendants of enslaved Africans and the criollos of the region.30

Cafés gave that mix somewhere to meet. Founded in 1858, Café Tortoni is the city's oldest café, and Carlos Gardel kept a reserved table there.22,32 Café de los Angelitos on Rivadavia was where, one night in 1917, the duo of Gardel and José Razzano was signed by the artistic director of the Odeón record label.13 Confitería La Ideal, from 1912, later gave its first floor to milongas, and its restored dome still crowns the room.33,34

By the 1930s, according to the tourism board, tango had conquered Buenos Aires and then the world, carried by romance, nostalgia and an embrace the tourism board itself describes as daringly close.35 Several of the cafés where that story played out still serve coffee today, which makes a history walk through the centre easy and rewarding, with a cortado at each stop and a museum or a monument in between.

Plan a history day

Which tango landmark should you visit first?

Tell us what draws you to tango and we suggest a stop.

  • If I love the songs and the voice

    Gardel's house in the Abasto

    Gardel bought it in 1927 for his mother; it is now his museum.23

  • If I want the African roots

    San Telmo on a weekend

    Candombe groups practise in its streets on Saturday and Sunday afternoons.17

  • If I want all of tango's history under one roof

    The World Tango Museum

    It traces tango from 1850 to the present, at the National Tango Academy.29

  • If I want a photo of the old port

    Caminito in La Boca

    Painted conventillos of Genoese immigrants, rescued in the 1950s.10

  • If I want to feel it, not read it

    A private lesson

    A private hour in a studio close to where you sleep, with a dancer as teacher.

Eras of tango

Port, golden age or concert hall?

Roots

The port years

Taverns, patios, candombe

  • When19th century
  • WhereSan Telmo, La Boca
  • SoundSmall groups
Read more

Dance halls

The golden age

Big orchestras, crowded floors

  • When1920s to 1950s
  • StarCarlos Gardel
  • StyleMilonguero
Read more

Piazzolla

Concert tango

Listening, not only dancing

  • WhenFrom the 1960s
  • StarAstor Piazzolla
  • TodayElectronic acts too
Read more

The bandoneon, the sound of the city

The bandoneon, a square button accordion with a bellows, gives tango its unmistakable voice. Porteños say it does not play but cries, and once you have heard it in a dark café you will understand why.78 The most prized instruments were made in Germany before the Second World War, and keeping them alive is skilled work.79 Each of the 276 reeds must be tuned individually.80 A good old bandoneon is a treasure its owner rarely sells.

Argentina celebrates the instrument every year on 11 July, its National Bandoneon Day, a date worth knowing if you love the sound.81 In Puerto Madero, the Tango Monument, an abstract bellows shape 3.5 metres high that echoes a bandoneon, was unveiled in 2007 on Music Day.28 Its abstract form turns the instrument into a public symbol of the music, and it makes a good stop on a riverside walk past the old docks of Puerto Madero.

The bandoneon also shaped the orchestras of the golden age. The tourism board places that age between the 1920s and the 1950s, when large orquestas típicas came to define the tango sound.2 Several bandoneons played side by side, with piano, violins and double bass, and the dancers on the floor followed their phrasing. When you hear a recording from that era in a milonga today, listen for the bandoneons breathing together.

Walk the story

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From candombe to UNESCO

Tango's story, step by step

  1. 18th century

    Candombe written down

    The word first appears in the River Plate.11

  2. 1853

    Slavery abolished

    African communities gather in Monserrat and San Telmo.12

  3. 1917

    Gardel's first record deal

    Signed at Café de los Angelitos.13

  4. 1935

    Gardel dies

    A plane crash in Medellín, Colombia.3

  5. 1948

    Sur is written

    Homero Manzi at San Juan and Boedo.14

  6. 2009

    World heritage

    UNESCO lists tango as intangible heritage.4

Carlos Gardel, the voice of tango

The city tourism board calls Carlos Gardel the most famous tango singer of all.82 His birth is still argued over, between Uruguay in 1887 and Toulouse, France, in 1890.83 What is certain is that he came to Buenos Aires as a boy with his mother and grew up around the Abasto market in Balvanera.84 In 1927 he bought a house on Jean Jaurès street for his mother, Berta, which is now the Carlos Gardel House Museum.23

Gardel loved the horse races at Palermo, owned a horse called Lunático and dedicated the tango Leguisamo solo to it.71 His death in a plane crash in Medellín, Colombia, in 1935, shocked the country.3 When his remains came home in 1936, a huge memorial was held at the Luna Park arena.24 He lies in Chacarita Cemetery, where the composer Aníbal Troilo is also buried, and his tomb is one of the most visited there.69,85

Visitors still leave lit cigarettes in the hand of his statue at Chacarita.70 In the Abasto, Pasaje Zelaya has 6 portraits of him painted on shop shutters, and a statue of the Zorzal Criollo, the Creole thrush, as Argentines call him, has stood by the old market since 2000.66,68,67 The house museum keeps his personal items and photographs, and organises concerts and film screenings in the rooms where he lived.86

Video

Tango is not just a dance: its history

Carol Meier Narrator on YouTube · The video waits until you tap play to load.

Among this mix of European immigrants to the region, descendents of African slaves and the natives of the region known as criollos, a wide range of customs, beliefs and rituals were merged and transformed into a distinctive cultural identity
UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage30

Your tango history day

A checklist for history lovers

Plan3

  • Gardel's house is closed on Tuesdays65
  • Museum entry ARS 10,000 for foreign visitors75
  • Join the free Saturday Abasto walk76

Visit3

  • The World Tango Museum on Avenida de Mayo29
  • Caminito's conventillos in La Boca9
  • Gardel's tomb at Chacarita Cemetery69

Hear3

  • A golden-age orchestra at a milonga2
  • Candombe llamadas in November and December18
  • Free tango concerts at the Usina del Arte or CCK77

Golden age floors, concert halls and tango nuevo

The golden age was also the age of the dancers. Argentina's heritage register says the close milonguero style was born on the packed floors of the 1940s, out of the need to dance in very little space.87 The poets were busy too: at a café table on the corner of San Juan and Boedo, Homero Manzi wrote the tango Sur in 1948, with music by Aníbal Troilo.14 The café has carried Manzi's name since 1981.88

From the 1960s, tango moved into concert halls, with richer orchestration and more dramatic arrangements.89 Astor Piazzolla led that change and made tango famous around the world once more, as music to listen to as well as to dance.90 Meanwhile the city kept its tango houses: Bar Sur opened in San Telmo in January 1967, and the singer Edmundo Rivero bought El Viejo Almacén in 1969 to make it a tango venue.25,26

Tango has kept changing since. Today you can hear orchestras that recreate the golden-age sound alongside tango punks and electronic acts that push the genre in new directions, often in the same week and the same neighbourhood.91 The Usina del Arte and the CCK often host free concerts, so you can hear contemporary tango for nothing.77 The milongas, meanwhile, still dance by the rules of the 1940s in halls across the city.92

Heritage today, and tango dance classes in Buenos Aires

In 2009 UNESCO added tango, shared by Argentina and Uruguay, to its world list of intangible heritage.4,5 Argentina added the milonguero social dance to its own register of intangible heritage on 15 January 2019, recognising the social style danced in its halls.93 The National Tango Academy, created in 1990 on Avenida de Mayo, houses the World Tango Museum, which follows the story from 1850 to the present.27,29

The Carlos Gardel House Museum, at Jean Jaurès 735, opens from 11 to 19 h on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays and from 11 to 20 h on weekends and holidays, and closes on Tuesdays.94,65 General entry for foreign visitors is ARS 10,000 and ARS 2,000 for residents with an ID, and children under 12 go free.75,95 The tourist board's free Saturday walk, Tango and the Abasto Market, covers the same streets.76

History reads better with your own feet on the floor. The city's August festival now spreads across more than 50 venues in 34 neighbourhoods, with almost 800 couples from more than 45 countries in the Mundial.19 If you want to join in, tango dance classes in Buenos Aires start with the same walk and embrace the milongueros danced in the 1940s, and a private hour with a professional dancer near your hotel is an easy first step.87

FAQ

Common questions, answered fast.

Where was tango born?
In the River Plate's port cities.

UNESCO credits the urban lower classes of Buenos Aires and Montevideo; the city places its start in the immigrant districts.5,6

Does tango have African roots?
Yes.

Argentina's culture authority names the milonga, candombe and other African-descended genres as a significant part of its birth.7

What instrument defines tango?
The bandoneon.

A bellows instrument with 276 reeds, each tuned by hand; Germany made the most prized ones.80,79

Who was Carlos Gardel?
The best-known tango singer.

He grew up in the Abasto, signed his first record deal in 1917 and died in a plane crash in Medellín in 1935.84,13,3

When was the golden age of tango?
The 1920s to the 1950s.

Large orchestras defined the sound, and the close milonguero style was born on crowded 1940s floors.2,87

When did UNESCO recognise tango?
In 2009.

Tango sits on UNESCO's list of the intangible heritage of humanity, shared by Argentina and Uruguay.4,5

Where can I see tango history in Buenos Aires?
Abasto, San Telmo, La Boca.

Visit Gardel's house museum, the cafés of the centre, Caminito and the World Tango Museum on Avenida de Mayo.23,29

Where can I take tango dance lessons in Buenos Aires?
Near your hotel or in a school.

The private hour sold here is held in a studio near your hotel; schools teach daily across the city.96

Sources

  1. City of Buenos Aires Government · Orígenes del Tango ↩
  2. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · The Sounds of the City ↩
  3. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Pasaje Carlos Gardel ↩
  4. UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage · Tango ↩
  5. UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage · Tango ↩
  6. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · A passion for tango ↩
  7. Government of Argentina, Culture Secretariat · Homenaje a las raíces afro del tango ↩
  8. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · The Sounds of the City ↩
  9. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Caminito ↩
  10. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Caminito ↩
  11. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Discover the rhythm of the city’s roots ↩
  12. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Discover the rhythm of the city’s roots ↩
  13. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Café de los Angelitos ↩
  14. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Esquina Homero Manzi ↩
  15. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Discover the rhythm of the city’s roots ↩
  16. Government of Argentina, Culture Secretariat · Homenaje a las raíces afro del tango ↩
  17. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Discover the rhythm of the city’s roots ↩
  18. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Discover the rhythm of the city’s roots ↩
  19. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Tango BA Festival y Mundial ↩
  20. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Semana de las Milongas ↩
  21. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register) ↩
  22. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Café Tortoni ↩
  23. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Carlos Gardel House Museum ↩
  24. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Luna Park ↩
  25. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Bar Sur ↩
  26. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · El Viejo Almacén ↩
  27. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Academia Nacional de Tango ↩
  28. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Monumento al Tango ↩
  29. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Museo Mundial del Tango ↩
  30. UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage · Tango ↩
  31. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Pasión por el tango ↩
  32. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Café Tortoni ↩
  33. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Confitería La Ideal ↩
  34. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Confitería La Ideal ↩
  35. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · A passion for tango ↩
  36. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Café Tortoni
  37. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Bar Sur
  38. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Café de los Angelitos
  39. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Pasión por el tango
  40. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Pasión por el tango
  41. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Pasión por el tango (page 2)
  42. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Pasión por el tango
  43. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Pasión por el tango
  44. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  45. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  46. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  47. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  48. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  49. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  50. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  51. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  52. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  53. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  54. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  55. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  56. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  57. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  58. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  59. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  60. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  61. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  62. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  63. City of Buenos Aires milonga register (USIG EPOK open data, shown on the tourism board milonga map) · Milongas (register)
  64. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Caminito
  65. City of Buenos Aires Government · Museo Casa Carlos Gardel ↩
  66. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Pasaje Zelaya ↩
  67. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Carlos Gardel Monument ↩
  68. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Carlos Gardel Monument ↩
  69. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Chacarita Cemetery ↩
  70. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Chacarita Cemetery ↩
  71. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Hipódromo Argentino (Palermo racecourse) ↩
  72. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · A passion for tango
  73. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Plaza Dorrego
  74. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Plaza Dorrego
  75. City of Buenos Aires Government · Museo Casa Carlos Gardel ↩
  76. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Carlos Gardel Monument ↩
  77. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · A passion for tango ↩
  78. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Y el bandoneón sigue sonando ↩
  79. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Y el bandoneón sigue sonando ↩
  80. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Y el bandoneón sigue sonando ↩
  81. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Y el bandoneón sigue sonando ↩
  82. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · A passion for tango ↩
  83. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Carlos Gardel House Museum ↩
  84. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Carlos Gardel House Museum ↩
  85. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Chacarita Cemetery ↩
  86. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Carlos Gardel House Museum ↩
  87. Government of Argentina, Culture Secretariat · Baile social milonguero (intangible heritage register) ↩
  88. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · Esquina Homero Manzi ↩
  89. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · A passion for tango ↩
  90. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · A passion for tango ↩
  91. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · The Sounds of the City ↩
  92. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · The Sounds of the City ↩
  93. Government of Argentina, Culture Secretariat · Baile social milonguero (intangible heritage register) ↩
  94. City of Buenos Aires Government · Museo Casa Carlos Gardel ↩
  95. City of Buenos Aires Government · Museo Casa Carlos Gardel ↩
  96. Buenos Aires City Tourism Board (Ente de Turismo) · A passion for tango ↩

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